Rating blanks

[nightfish]

I'd like to know more about the different brands of blanks out there, and their actions. I'm thinking more about the brands like PacBay, Rainshadow, etc, the ones you can't pick up as a finished rod in a shop to see how they feel/cast. So, for those who've built these rods, can you describe the actions, and maybe compare the finished product to a mfg finished rod? (example...the xyz blank throws like an XP)

[chris]

I know you will get rebuttals from stillwater fisherman and competition casters but by far the best fish fighting and presentation rods come from T&T in the LPS series, exclude travel convenience and long casting and think pure fishing and these are my blank of choice.

[nightfish]

I haven't had the opportunity to fish a T&T, but Stef agrees with you, for the most part...she swears by the Paradigm line.

But what I was looking for is more info on the other brands of blanks. So, excluding Sage, T&T, Loomis, Orvis (or rods you can buy finished) I'd like to hear about the actions of blanks from the likes of PacBay, Rainshadow, etc...

[Ouzel]

various fly rods for someone else is like trying to tell someone why you like Blonds or Redheads, Ford or Chevy. Even rods rated for the same weight line from the same mfg. will be a little different and each person had a slightly different casting cadence.

It's a good question with a hard answer.

[nightfish]

Ok, so lets make it a little easier, and get to what I really want to know. Rate by slow, mid or fast flex. I'd also like to know of any different brands of blank makers besides the 2 I specifically mentioned.

[Cary]

Nick, your asking a pretty tough question. Basically, none of the inexpensive blanks feel like an XP, SP, Winston, or any other high end brand. Doesnt mean they dont build into fine fishing rods, but you're not going to get a 15-dollar blank to perform like a $600 XP. Most of the inexpensive blanks are using older technology materials- IM6, ect, and not the new whiz-bang graphites/ epoxies launched by the high-end manufacturers.

The best way for you to compare is to use the data from the "commom cents" system and find blanks with simmilar DBIs. Wheigt will also effect the "feel", and is not taken into account by the CC rating.

[newtyer]

Ouzel said it right.

I kind of disagree with the "high end rod" statement, sort of. If the 15 dollar rod's action suits you and performs well for your casting stroke then you will fish it better than a xp for you. But the 15 dollar blank everyone is using isn't going to be a xp. But I have found certain companies that I feel make excellent blanks that will compete with "high end rods" in every way, even weight of the blank. I like Dan Craft blanks, Amtak, rainshadows excel series, All Star, and a few others. I tend to stay away from imported blanks, although some can be a gem, generally they aren't designed as well. So in my opinion look for the blanks around 60 to 150 bucks. After all nothing is special with the materials of a Winston WT. I believe its just IM6 with the same ol taper. A real good taper IMO.

[nightfish]

Ok, so If I'm trying to find out the speed of the rod, ie slow mediumm or fast, then I should look at the modulus alone?

[Ouzel]

the modulus is the only answer to a rods action but I have found the lower modulus ratings end in a fuller and slower action rod (which I much prefer).

A good way to find out a rods action and loading characteristics is to talk to the mfg.

[Ouzel]

parts of the equation are wall thickness, diameter and taper.

[newtyer]

dont go by the modulus ratings for action. They are only one part of the make up of the action. most important is the taper. Its very difficult to determine what action a blank has with out seeing it in person. I have built on several of the blanks you have mentioned. Let me know what kind of action you are looking for and maybe I can help point you in the right direction.