Microfibett question...

[FlySmyth]

At the show I saw a fellow tie a fibett on at a 45 degree angle. He then pulled the opposite half back and tied it down. Leaving a split tail but with one side the thicker end of the fibett. I showed a fly I tied like this around and everyone said that was a no-no.

My question to you all is why wouldn't that work? Really, can fish measure tails on flys along with everything else the busy little devils have to think about?

Ken.

[Fred]

I guess the thing to do is a controlled expirement where you find yourself catching fish with the fly in question and then switch between the two patterns. I like to have mine look like the real deal, so I like them tapered down. Sometimes I will tie in two on each side, but having the butt end sticking out just wouldn't seem to look right.

[Crosby]

It will work- but thats not how a natural looks- so I just do it the tapering way hoping it will help me out with those finicky ones where my other skills are lacking.

[flyty]

"but thats not how a natural looks"

Don't the naturals hold their tails off the water? And, I use three fiber split tails, and I believe most naturals don't have three tails. Hmmm...maybe that's why I never catch any fish.

[MOKE]

Wrap a small quantity of dubbing material or in some other way (tying thread) create a small ball at the furthest point back on the hook where you would attach the tail. Take your micrfibbets and single wrap them onto the hook shank at about the 11 o'clock position just in front of the ball / dubbing. As you tighten the m.fibbets down on the second and subsequent wraps you will pull them over the hook shank and dubbing ball. This "ball" creates a natural splaying of the fibbets into a sweet fan pattern over the top of the hook shank.

Peace
MOKE

[FlySmyth]

Okay Moke,

I have had a bunch of people tell me that and a couple even show it to me but for the life of me I cant make it look right.

What might I be doing wrong?

Ken.

[MOKE]

The smart asz response...... Practice makes perfect.

Make sure that you get the "subsequent wraps" right behind the 'ball" that you created. It doesn't take much of a ball to make this motion happen.
Go through the motions really slowly and with a well waxed "grippy" thread.
If it doesn't work, back off and try again.
Keep trying, if it doesn't work out. It comes really quick and natural for me now, but I learned this in excess of 20 years ago.

It also works really well with natural hackle fibers, and things like moose hair, not just m.fibbets.

Good luck! (and don't throw tools! ;)

MOKE

[Fred]

I use the microfibbets a lot and I can't get them in right using Moke's method. I can't get them like they suggest on the RS2 site where you tie them in on the side either I can get them in making the ball with thread, and then tying them in one at a time. I cross them over and make an X. It just takes a little practice and once you have it in place, make a couple of tight wraps to hold them there.

[Mike]

Although it would be hopeless for me to attempt to explain how to do it here, there is a good way to split fibetts without using the dubbing ball. Greg at Western Rivers demonstrated during a soft hackle class he was giving. It works really well and requires nothing but a few thread wraps.

Sorry that's sort of useless -- but there is a good alternate technique out there! I used to use the dubbing ball method too.

[MOKE]

I guess I'm gonna have to come up there, and teach you all how to tie in microfibbets ;)

****EDIT****
This question caused me to go and sit down at the vise and tie in a tail just now.
I was able to capture, splay and secure the tail in three wraps.
I might have been mistaken in my first statement of splaying during the second wrap. I captured the tail at about 10:30 to 11:00 oclock on the tiers side of the first wrap, and splay over the dubbing ball in the first wrap. The second wrap finished the motion, and the third secured it. Most of the splaying motion was created in the first wrap though. I then wrapped the reamining tail material forward and cut it off near the base of the parachute post. This makes for a nice tight body.
Hope this helps.


MOKE

Post # 1111, and the space / time portals open up ;)
(Numerology schit!)

[Crosby]

Flysmyth- I think there are 3 tailed mays- but I use two and sometimes more- I do tie them off the water so as to speak- but again I don't think that is the major factor- I have always been under the assumption that presentation is the key with all fishing- be it worm dunking or fly fishing. Not that I always am in the zone but when I'm not, my fishing statistics show it. I have gone away from the ball of dubbing at the tail of the fly and just splyed them with out it- somewhere in an old FF mag there was a good article on it.

[Booger]

Moke,
I'm new to this board, have been lurking and learning a lot.
This microfibbets issue brought up a question.
What size thread are you using, and how many wraps are you using to create your "ball".
I have tried this in the past as well and have nothing but problems.
I think my balls are too big, but can't seem to get it with smaller ones either (did I say that out loud?).

I have been using the "tag end" to split the tails, but they don't get the nice elevation with that method.

Thanks for the help,
G.

[MOKE]

I can't resist!! Please don't take offense.
Welcome aboard!! :)


This is a poem by Maggie, and she is 8 years old. A Utah resident, btw.

MY Booger by Maggie

My booger is green.
My booger is sticky.
My booger is big.
My booger is icky.
The best place for my booger
is not on the wall.
It is not on my finger.
It is not down the hall.

The best place for my booger
most likely of all
is determined by flicking
my finger that's picking
and seeing exactly
where my booger is sticking.

Microfibbet tails Q?.....
I use Danville in probably an 8/0 or 9/0, and always minimize my wraps rather than to go to a smaller thread.
The ball I use is quite tiny, and like Crosby said, "you really dont need the ball at all", it just makes it easier. (paraphrase) So 4-5 wraps to create a thread ball? And less with micro fine dubbing.
I can't really say much more than this, as its hard to convey thoughts w/out pics.

Peace
MOKE

[Booger]

I use the handle for two reasons:
1. Easy to remember
2. I have an 8 year old son. When he gets out of line in public I quietly flick him in the head (sometimes pretty hard).
He used to say "what was that for?" and I'd tell him he was acting like a booger, so he got flicked.

I guess I'll have to flick him harder and "seeing exactly where my booger is sticking" LOL
G.
PS: Thanks for the tip, my balls are too big!

[MOKE]

Originally posted by Booger
PS: Thanks for the tip, my balls are too big!

Yes indeed, in fly tying, though not all things....This can be a real problem! :) LOL

MOKE

[flyty]

I don't use a dubbing ball because on small flies it creates too much bulk. You might want to make a ball or hump with the tying thread instead--that might work better. AK Best suggests that method, and he recommends that you create a pyramid with the thread: three base wraps side by side, two wraps side by side on top of that, and one last wrap to top it off. If you don't want to use a ball at all, split the tail fibers, and to get elevation, all you need to do is wrap once underneath both fibers and pull towards the hook eye to force the fibers up.

[FlySmyth]

All good advice.

I have been practicing my fibett seperation technique all afternoon. Who knows some day I will be the teacher and it will be second nature for me too.

Ken.

[Ouzel]

I think Moke and Maggie are doing way too many chemicals.

The method I use, like other, is to wrap the thread forward, a couple of wraps, and then tie in each filbret one at a time.

[RAW]

What about tying in the microfibett and then running the blade of your scissor down them with ever-so-gentle pressure causing them to curl outward slightly? Just an idea. Be careful, too much pressure will really curl 'em.