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Marty
08-20-2007, 06:17 AM
Just got back from Mongolia and no it was not a fishing vacation. It was one of those family trips where you try to sneak off and do some fishing. I did get to fish but not as planned. My plan was to take a few days and drive north for Taimen but after spending the first few days in the country my wife would not let me go because she was afraid I would not make it back. So I changed my plans and hired a driver to take me to a river that was not as far. There is nothing better than a great fishing adventure and mine in Mongolia was just that. Here is how it all came together.

The night before we left, I met with the guy (Aibek) that was going with me, and we did the shopping. Aibek spoke very little English so it was mostly point and nod. The market was a whole’nother story and I wish I could have taken a photo of the meat counter. It was just a table with a bunch of meat and sheep heads covered with flies and the produce section was almost as raw. The potatoes and carrots were covered with the dirt they were grown in. We filled the cart with all kinds of stuff so I was not too concerned about starving. The next day the driver picked us up at 5:00 am and we headed out of the city. As it started to get light I finally got to see the Mongolia I had pictured in my mind. The first animals were yaks followed by herds of goats, sheep, and horses. Every 5 miles or so there would be some gers (yurts) surrounded by more herds of goat and sheep. There were no buildings or any real signs of modern civilization. The road was paved for the first hour and a half and then turned into dirt for two more hours. During the ride my hand never left the handle. The roads both paved and dirt beat me up and reminded me of the old wild mouse at Lagoon. On the way we stopped at a ger owned by a friend of the driver. It was just like stopping at the rancher’s house to see how the fishing is, the only problem was I could not understand any of the conversation. There was some pointing that I did understand that gave me some hope. We were invited in for a quick meal. It started with milk and what they called cheese. As I was sitting there they passed me a bowl of meat that they had been taking turns eating from. I did my best to get some of it down then asked what it was. Aibek in broken English said “it’s what you call marmot” then took the knife and turned the head over. As you can see in the photos it was very primitive but pretty cool. After lunch we headed off to the river, just 30 more minutes of the ride from hell.

We parked next to the river and started to get ready. Because I had not planned on fishing for trout I did not have the right gear. Aibek handed me his rod and said I could use it. I told him we would take turns but he had no idea what I was saying. He handed me the reel first. It was a CFO 123 in good shape. When he handed me the tube I thought I was in business, thinking it was a matching rod. When I opened the tube I was surprised to see a 50 year old glass rod. It was an 8 foot 7 weight with no flex if you can believe that. I strung up the line and gave it a few false casts. It seamed to be working. Aibek had only been fly fishing for a short time but was way into it. He pulled out a box of flies that I had sent him the year before and pulled out one of the two tone hoppers. He was not able to translate grasshopper into English so he went and found one to show me what he was trying to communicate. I tied it on and walked down to the river. It was hot so I decided to wet wade. As I stepped into the river I was surprised that the water was so warm. I was not expecting too much because of the prior reports of the river being fished out and with no stocking programs to replenish the fish. But I was fishing in Mongolia surrounded by all kinds of new experiences. I had fish come up to my first five casts. They were all too small to take the fly so I stopped setting the hook and just had fun watching the fly bounce off their noses. As I moved up the run I made a cast straight up stream in the heart of the riffle. The fly floated about a foot before the explosion. If was so violent I froze for a second them remembered to set the hook. When I lifted the rod the line went tight. It took me a minute to get my brain to realize I had hooked a big fish. The fish fought well with a number of short runs then just pulled hard. I worked the fish to me and landed my first Mongolian Trout. I held it a little longer than I should have but I had to take in all in. I fished the rest of the first day with six more trout over 20 inches and a few small grayling.

Dinner was a pot of soup made from canned meat from Russia. It was not too bad once I got the first few bites down. I was dying for a diet coke but all they had at the market was diet pepsi. They don’t have coolers in Mongolia so everything we had to drink was warm. I took a pull on a pepsi and about lost it. Nastiest drink I have ever tasted. Had to drink warm water the rest of the trip. All in all the food was not too bad and added to the experience.

In the morning I got up kind of early, watched the sun rise and got ready to fish. My two partners never moved so I went out on my own. The fishing was as good in the morning as it was the night before. I hooked and landed a number of large fish. The fly I was using finally bit the dust with no more to replace it. I had my chest pack filled with steelhead and salmon flies so I started to dig around a found a size 2 two tone foam golden stone smashed in one of the pockets. I dressed it up and on one of the first casts and hooked a nice fish. I thought they were taking it as a big hopper until I saw the goldens flying around. I did take some time to study the insects and was amazed at how they were so alike to the bugs in our rivers.

My day was cut short because of a dinner date back in the city. Leaving the river was hard and left me with a strong desire to return and find the fish that they measure in meters. I have already started to make plans and this time I will leave the wife home.

Phlyfisher
08-20-2007, 06:44 AM
Great report. I've always wanted to fly fish in another country. If I were you, I think I would've kept a couple of the fish to avoid eating that mystery meat!

seabass14
08-20-2007, 06:47 AM
This was awesome. I have seen some footage of the Teimen(SP?) being fished and they look like they would be a kick. Especially with those two fisted rods you like to use. Great colors on that larger fish!

nativecutt
08-20-2007, 07:19 AM
Are those trout or Lenok? So I take it you didn't catch any Tolkh?

Juke
08-20-2007, 02:25 PM
It is a Lenok. I have caught a number of these fish in the tribs of Lake Baikal.

Mongolia is probably one of the most beatiful places on earth, particulalrly in the late spring/early summer. The wide open spaces, and simple beauty is not easy to explain. The roads do give your kidneys a workout. Try a 28 hour road trip from Ulan Bataar to Uvs region. Did you get a chance to have the fermented mares milk? The butter in your tea takes a bit to get used to as well.

Hopefully you will get a chance to post some additional experiences from this trip.

Marty
08-20-2007, 03:27 PM
Yes the bigger fish are Lenok and it is my understanding they are a char not a trout. Not sure where it got lost in the translation but they were calling them trout, but them so do we when it comes to lake and brook trout. The river I was fishing did have tolkh (taimen) but I did not see one. I walked about 5 miles of river looking for one without any success. We talked to some kids that were taking a bath in a deep pool that said they had seen one a few weeks before so I guess they were in there. I am making plans to return next September and will be fishing with a guy who used to manage (forest ranger) an area that has the best taimen fishing in Mongolia. It’s a year off but I already can’t wait to get back there.

No horse milk, had my chance but chickened out.

coreyk
08-20-2007, 04:31 PM
great pics and awesome report! .. sounds like a blast.

mike doughty
08-20-2007, 06:56 PM
they have mongolian trout in korea as well, but i never got a chance to fish for them. i did get into some bass while i was there though.

nightfish
08-20-2007, 07:02 PM
That is a cool trip story. Was the cheese "Borat" style?

Utah DaveII
08-20-2007, 08:22 PM
Did you get a chance to have the fermented mares milk? The butter in your tea takes a bit to get used to as well.


That reminds me of a line from Kingpin.

"We don't have a cow, we have a bull."

Carry on :)

BTW nice story marty.

Marty are you interested in some midge fishing, soon?

Marty
08-20-2007, 08:49 PM
Dave - yes, just have to get it in before BC.

Foamy8
08-20-2007, 08:52 PM
So, I gotta ask, how was the marmot?

Marty
08-20-2007, 09:17 PM
Tasted like something between chicken and deer meat. After we got to the river we made a sandwich. Aibek pulled out a stick a solami, cut up some tomatoes and plastered the bread with mayo. The solami was from Russia and was the color of a good indicator (bright reddish pink). Not sure why but I asked him to build me one. I took a deep breath and went for it. It was not too bad in fact one of the best riverside sandwiches I have ever had. All in all the food in Mongolia was not all the bad.

Foamy8
08-20-2007, 09:27 PM
What a cool experience. I love new stuff like that. That's on my to do list.

nightfish
08-20-2007, 09:32 PM
What a cool experience. I love new stuff like that. That's on my to do list.

What is on your list, eating large rodents or fishing in Mongolia?

I ate swamprat (nutria) in Peru. It was better than the turtle.

brownstalker
08-20-2007, 09:49 PM
Thanks for sharing that Marty. A co-worker went there for two years and knew a man by the name of Aibek. He was wondering how you met him. That is a rare name in Mongolia he said. This was very interesting. Are there limitations on taking your own rods?

Foamy8
08-20-2007, 10:42 PM
Nightfish-

Both are on my list. I've eaten some crazy things, and would eat most anything if I'm visiting a country. You don't get the true flavor of the culture if you're expecting your mom's homecooking.

Marty or anyone else that knows- how much is a trip like that going to cost?

Marty
08-20-2007, 11:17 PM
Brownstalker If he was there for two years I am sure it is the same Aibek and no limitations on rods I just took big rods for the big fish 13’ #9. I am kicking myself for not taking trout gear.

Foamy my two days of fishing ran me about $100. It was going to cost me about $500 for 4 days of hunting for Taimen. I have been running the number and it looks like I will be able to keep it under $3000 for a week and airfare. There are a number of lodges in the $6000 range but I like doing it on my own.

Scudslug
08-21-2007, 04:55 AM
I'll have to tell my wife I'm "sneaking off" to do some fishing next time we are on vacation. Boy will she be surprised when I'm gone for two days after a 5 hour drive!

Phlyfisher
08-21-2007, 06:11 AM
they have mongolian trout in korea as well, but i never got a chance to fish for them. i did get into some bass while i was there though.

What part of Korea did you fish in? When I was over there, I saw a few rivers with fish but never got a chance to wet a line.

mike doughty
08-21-2007, 07:29 AM
What part of Korea did you fish in? When I was over there, I saw a few rivers with fish but never got a chance to wet a line.

i was stationed in gunsan, which is kinda southern west coast. fished a local lake there and fished a lake a little east of seoul. white buggers were the ticket

Raff
08-21-2007, 07:58 PM
Damn....The list of places to fish before I die just got one entry longer. I guess I better make some big bucks to get out to Mongolia. Anybody know how to travel the world and fish on a small budget?

Juke
08-21-2007, 08:45 PM
Damn....The list of places to fish before I die just got one entry longer. I guess I better make some big bucks to get out to Mongolia. Anybody know how to travel the world and fish on a small budget?

Yes, actually I do. Go to work for an oilfield services company like Haliburton or Schlumberger and stay single. I met a couple of guys from Wales that were doing just that. Typically it is a 45 day contract, they would then take 30 days off and fish in whatever country they were in or close to. From western Kazakhstan working for Texaco, they were headed to Kamchatka to work for Royal Dutch Shell. During the winters they would take contracts in the Persian Gulf or SE Asia. High pay for tough work, all travel expenses to and from the job, and room and board while "in country" are also paid.