Fly line to leader connection

[FlyGuy]

Just curious as to what method(s) you prefer to attach the leader to the fly line. I've commonly used a mono leader butt with loop to loop connectors and it works well. I do blood knot the leader to the butt on my 3 wt as I often need to pull the connection into the guides.

If any of you prefer the braided loops, why? Do you have any problems with hinging or sinking?

[K.B.]

I'm a big fan of "Leader Links," which are little tapered plastic connectors I got out of the Cabelas catalog. You insert the tip of your line into one end and out the slot on the side, tie an overhand knot as a stopper, clip off the tag, then pull the line back and push the knot into the slot until the it seats inside the connector. Do the same procedure with the butt end of your tippet. I've found that with the tippet you have to tie a figure eight knot for the stopper because an overhand knot is sometimes to small and can slip out of the connector.

These things really work well. They are cheap ($2.39 for 5), small, light, don't seem to affect leader turnover, don't get caught in the guides as much as a loop to loop connection and I haven't had one break yet. Its very easy to change leaders by backing the butt out of the connector (sometimes I have to push the knot out with the needle on my clipper) and clipping off the stopper knot -- you lose far less leader butt than you would retying a nail knot, and you don't lose any of your line (you could also back the leader out entirely and not lose any length if you're using a knotless tapered leader).

KB

[mcgx2]

I use a loop to loop connection on both of my lines that I use most often. I suppose for three reasons.

It is easy to tie
It is easy to change
It works well

I usually employ the KISS philosophy especially on the water.

mcg

[cardiac]

I've been using Cortland leader loops that slip on (kinda like Chinese finger cuffs) and a spot of Zap a Gap then the mini heat shrink that comes with it. Works pretty good so far. Then the Airflo Poly leader with which ever tippet. This coming year I plan on ordering a couple furled leaders. All with handshake loops.

[Ed Kent]

Nail knot fed through fly line butt then coated with aqua seal...the only way to go....

[shazerblaze]

Loop to loop connections, for sure, for most of the fishing. If the fishing is more difficult (when the fishes are more smarter than me -- there you go), I will change to a blood know to the butt section. Just a couple of thoughts.

[Crosby]

I have gone to the superglue deal---- haven't had a problem in 3 years. When you have a long leader and have to reel that leader into your rod so you can release a fish- there is no knot so nothing catches on an eye if the fish runs. It works very well on 5wt line- a little tougher on 3wt but still possible. And in 3 years I haven't had one give way.

[Ouzel]

Like Crosby I have been using the super glue method of connection for several years and have never had it pull apart.
As I prefer long leaders I enjoy having the smoothest connection possible.
In leader selection you need to make sure the leader butt diameter is at least 2/3 of the diameter of the fly line at the tie in.
Most fly lines tips are tapered down to .022 but check the end of your own fly line as that is a mfg. target not what you may have actually purchased.
For Salt Water fishing I use the old nail knot connection. While it is not as smooth it will never let go after it is properly tied and salt water fish will typically strain your gear more and for a longer period then fresh water fish.

[Bryan E.]

Last time I purchased new leader from "Anglers" I had them attach it for me. Wow, that was easy.

[Fred]

Like Ed, I use the nail not. Never thought about putting aqua seal on it, but that's an idea.

What is the super glue method? Never heard of it.

[Crosby]

Rufman- basically and quickly iits boring a hole in the end of your fly line about 1/4" with a needle--- cutting your leader butt on a 45 and shoving it in with some superglue on it--- a little more than that- but basically thats it. No knot- gotta go = have 30 minutes to fish.

[Jason B]

i use leader links like K.B. They are cheap and i have never had one break or affect casting. And they are very easy to put on or switch leaders
Jason B

[Ouzel]

I dug out my notes on the magazine article that I saw several years ago. No note on mag/author.
Soak "1 inch" fly line end in acetone (wife's nail polish remover).
Remove vinyl coating from same.
Insert needle up center of fly line to expand central braided core.
Cut butt end of leader on angle to create a point.
Insert leader butt end into braided core at least "1 inch".
Let dry 5 min.
Test pull (firmly).

Personally I had a couple fail the test pull step but never had one pull out on me on the water, so don't skip the last step.

Curtiss & et. al.:
The leader is a transparent extension of the fly line. With that in mind I will use a long tapered leader that ends with a 5 lb. tippet.
I tie a loop in the end and will then add the actual fishing tippet section to that (loop-loop).
I have seen instances where a 3 to 4 stiff section of mono is added to the fly line then a loop formed and leaders are then connected loop to loop. I feel this is just a way to have the fisherman buy more leaders, (industry product use support system) and is an extra step.
The whole point is to have the kinetic energy imparted by your arm turn over the fly at the end of the cast. Yes, you do change flies during the day and you may go from a tiny midge to a fluffy dry to a weighted streamer. So you need to adjust THE TIPPET SECTION.
I have found most leaders that end in a 5 lb. tippet section will turn over a large weighted streamer, so that is the point at which my leader ends and my tippet adjustment start. I'm there to present a fly properly and catch fish, not swap leaders and tie knots.
KIS or form follows function.